Modes of transportation: Sangthaew, bus, bike.
Places visited: Xam Nua, Phonsavanh, Luang Phrabang
Costs of things: Beer (65 cents - $1), Meals ($1 to $8), hotel ($6 to $25)
As Adam and I rode up to the border, the familiar butterflies in my stomach began to flutter. Even though all of our papers were in order and there was nothing to worry about, somehow, I always feel like I've done something wrong. As usual, it was fine except we had to pay $2 each extra for "administration fees". Can't really blame the border guy, he barely makes enough to live on and must "supplement" his income just to feed his family. Still, corruption sucks!
As it was still really cold and wet, Adam and I decided to behave like "real" tourists and take local motorized transportation throughout our journey towards Luang Prabang. We managed to get a ride in a sangthaew (a pick-up truck modified to transport people in the truckbed) to Xam Nua, the largest town from the border with accommodation - only 75km away but a 3 hour, gruelling, freezing your ass-off, heavily nauseating (I barely kept my lunch) and cramped ride. The route drove along winding roads high up in the mountains that left us praying the bus wasn't going to slide over the edge. What a blast! While we didn't do much in Xam Nua, we were introduced to the local rice whisky - Lao Lao - wow -wow! Only 40 cents for a bottle and packs quite a punch.
Next, on to Phonsavanh where we arrived safely - despite the "little" incident where our bus was forced into a ditch by another motorist (luckily not off the cliff). All passengers ganged together
to push the bus out of the ditch. It was great to stretch our legs. While a nondescript town, Phonsavanh is the home base for the famous "Plain of Jars". This site holds clusters of large stone containers (4000 in all), carved in one piece from limestone, atmospherically located at the top of a small hill with lovely surrounding views. The area is also famous for being one of the most heavily bombed areas on the planet. Between 1964 through 1973, the United States government was waging a "Secret War" in the neutral country of Laos (while denying it to the American people and the international community), dropping an estimated 2 million tons of bombs (including napalm and white phosphorous) in a relentless bombing campaign against the suspected North Vietnamese and Pathet Lao. During our stay here, we met other cold tourists in the popular falang restaurant which had a nice dry fire in a bucket (I don't think fireplaces exhist in SE Asia) which was keeping us all warm and sane.
Places visited: Xam Nua, Phonsavanh, Luang Phrabang
Costs of things: Beer (65 cents - $1), Meals ($1 to $8), hotel ($6 to $25)
As Adam and I rode up to the border, the familiar butterflies in my stomach began to flutter. Even though all of our papers were in order and there was nothing to worry about, somehow, I always feel like I've done something wrong. As usual, it was fine except we had to pay $2 each extra for "administration fees". Can't really blame the border guy, he barely makes enough to live on and must "supplement" his income just to feed his family. Still, corruption sucks!
As it was still really cold and wet, Adam and I decided to behave like "real" tourists and take local motorized transportation throughout our journey towards Luang Prabang. We managed to get a ride in a sangthaew (a pick-up truck modified to transport people in the truckbed) to Xam Nua, the largest town from the border with accommodation - only 75km away but a 3 hour, gruelling, freezing your ass-off, heavily nauseating (I barely kept my lunch) and cramped ride. The route drove along winding roads high up in the mountains that left us praying the bus wasn't going to slide over the edge. What a blast! While we didn't do much in Xam Nua, we were introduced to the local rice whisky - Lao Lao - wow -wow! Only 40 cents for a bottle and packs quite a punch.
Next, on to Phonsavanh where we arrived safely - despite the "little" incident where our bus was forced into a ditch by another motorist (luckily not off the cliff). All passengers ganged together
to push the bus out of the ditch. It was great to stretch our legs. While a nondescript town, Phonsavanh is the home base for the famous "Plain of Jars". This site holds clusters of large stone containers (4000 in all), carved in one piece from limestone, atmospherically located at the top of a small hill with lovely surrounding views. The area is also famous for being one of the most heavily bombed areas on the planet. Between 1964 through 1973, the United States government was waging a "Secret War" in the neutral country of Laos (while denying it to the American people and the international community), dropping an estimated 2 million tons of bombs (including napalm and white phosphorous) in a relentless bombing campaign against the suspected North Vietnamese and Pathet Lao. During our stay here, we met other cold tourists in the popular falang restaurant which had a nice dry fire in a bucket (I don't think fireplaces exhist in SE Asia) which was keeping us all warm and sane.From there, we took another gruelling but heated bus ride to Luang Phrabang, and this time, I was prepared with Gravol (what a miracle drug that is, yeehaw!). As we disembarked the bus, we were struck by a sight we hadn't seen in almost a month - sun! And they call this the dry 
season. By far the crown jewels of north Laos, the former royal capital of Luang Prabang remains one of the most charming and romantic cities in all of Asia and also notable as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After much searching, we found a decent guesthouse with hot showers and colour satellite TV which was great for Adam as he was able to watch the superbowl, at 6 in the morning!
He was very happy - except for the fact that he got sick - again - for most of our stay in the city. I, in the meantime, got some laundry done, fixed our bikes and did a little sightseeing. The best part of Luang Phrabang was going to the Red Cross for an herbal sauna (a secret blend of herbs are used, perhaps the Colonel learned a thing or two from Laos) and massage (where you can also give blood!) - all for $3.50! We also took a wonderful cooking course where we were introduced to the secrets ingredients used in Lao cooking, and we were even introduced to some tasty insects. Fried larvae taste just like egg whites - yum! On our last day, we went swimming at the local waterfall - Kuang Xi - bathing and relaxing by the turquoise pools. We also visited Phet, the orphaned tiger 
and young bears living just by the entrance gate.
Our first impression of Laos was a laid-back feel amongst gorgeous albeit cold and wet scenery and a lovely people. What a difference from Vietnam!
season. By far the crown jewels of north Laos, the former royal capital of Luang Prabang remains one of the most charming and romantic cities in all of Asia and also notable as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After much searching, we found a decent guesthouse with hot showers and colour satellite TV which was great for Adam as he was able to watch the superbowl, at 6 in the morning!
He was very happy - except for the fact that he got sick - again - for most of our stay in the city. I, in the meantime, got some laundry done, fixed our bikes and did a little sightseeing. The best part of Luang Phrabang was going to the Red Cross for an herbal sauna (a secret blend of herbs are used, perhaps the Colonel learned a thing or two from Laos) and massage (where you can also give blood!) - all for $3.50! We also took a wonderful cooking course where we were introduced to the secrets ingredients used in Lao cooking, and we were even introduced to some tasty insects. Fried larvae taste just like egg whites - yum! On our last day, we went swimming at the local waterfall - Kuang Xi - bathing and relaxing by the turquoise pools. We also visited Phet, the orphaned tiger 
and young bears living just by the entrance gate.Our first impression of Laos was a laid-back feel amongst gorgeous albeit cold and wet scenery and a lovely people. What a difference from Vietnam!
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